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If you are also looking for replacement car parts for your vehicle, you can find all the necessary information on an extensive automotive parts directory online listing out details on performance parts, replacement parts and OEM to cater to all your requirements. All the car parts are catalogued in detail according to the model and type of the car. Automotive parts directory makes it easy for the customers to look for the particular car parts that match their specific car model.
All the replacement parts available at an auto spare parts USA are tested for their quality so you can be assured of best performance from their parts. Also, via shopping online, the processing and shipment is fast and convenient but make sure the service provider offers clear terms for exchange or return, in case of delivery of wrong auto part.
Car Care:
Air conditioning
As air conditioning becomes more common, you have yet another fluid level to check. You should run your air conditioning at least once a week, and not just when the weather is hot, to help maintain it.
Vehicle manufacturers recommend servicing air-conditioning systems every two years. A fully functional system brings you several major benefits:
Ensures that correct temperatures are being reached.
Reduces pollen and pollution entering your car.
Saves you money.
Reduces the amount of chloroflurocarbons (CFCs) in the atmosphere.
Increases the life of your vehicle's air conditioning system.
A useful tip in winter is to run the air conditioning to prevent your windscreen misting up.
Air filter
Air filters are inexpensive, but when they get dirty they can reduce your fuel economy by an appreciable amount, and result in a fine for failing a roadside emissions test. Dirty air filters should be replaced or cleaned as soon as possible. It's an easy job to do but check the handbook if you are unsure, or alternatively take it to a garage.
Battery
Most batteries have "maintenance free" stamped on them, and you won't ever have to check the electrolyte level. If your battery is not "maintenance free", you should unscrew the plastic caps and check the level of the liquid inside (electrolyte). If it is low, top it up with distilled water, not tap water. You should also check the condition of the terminals. If they are corroded, take off the wires (negative off first and back on last), clean up with a wire brush and grease with Vaseline or normal grease to prevent corrosion returning. Remember, batteries contain strong acid and you must always be cautious when checking and removing them.
Brakes
For your own safety, it is important to check your brake pads or shoes. These components are made from a heat-resistant friction material, which deteriorates due to being clamped against the disc or pushed against the drum when the brakes are applied. Also check for fluid leaks caused by damaged brake hoses or worn seals which could result in brake failure. A telltale sign that your brake pads are wearing unevenly is that your car will have a tendency to pull to one side when you brake, and you should get them checked.
Clutch
On a hydraulic clutch, fluid ensures the clutch operates smoothly and helps prevent wear and tear. If you feel that under acceleration, the engine revs build up faster than the car is actually accelerating, it may mean your clutch is wearing out. If this happens, get it checked as soon as possible - worn clutches eventually fail which means you will not be able to change gear. So it pays to check your clutch fluid level and ensure it is replaced as recommended by the vehicle handbook. This will help to keep costs down and your car running safely.
The best way to keep the running cost of your car minimal is to maintain your car effectively. Cars do not look after themselves and parts do wear out due to the extreme conditions and pressures they operate within. However, if you carry out regular checks on your car, you can extend the life of certain parts and ensure your car runs reliably. Always ensure you have your car serviced as recommended in the drivers manual. Failure to do so may lead to excessive wear on your vehicle, leading to breakdowns and expensive repairs. Failing to have your car serviced may also mean that parts critical to safety are not checked, which can be dangerous.
Fan belt
If your fan belt starts slipping (you will definitely know when you hear the squeal!), it may not be tensioned properly. At best this could result in your battery going flat through not being recharged, and at worst, it could fail to operate your cooling fan, resulting in serious and expensive damage due to the engine overheating.
Fuel
It may sound obvious, but make sure you have enough fuel before you start a journey. "Breakdowns" caused by people forgetting to do this are surprisingly common. As for the grade of petrol - super unleaded is usually a waste of money and won't improve performance or engine longevity. Normal unleaded petrol will do just fine.
Leaks
If you do notice any leaks, get them checked immediately. With so many different systems in a modern car relying on specialist liquids or lubricants to run properly, it's better to be safe than sorry.
Lights
You should check all your lights and bulbs regularly. As they can sometimes fail in combinations, it's best to ask someone to look at the front and rear while you test them. Check your brake lights and indicators with the headlights on and off, as sometimes a bad earth can cause a fault if both lights are on together. Note: it is illegal to drive with failed or malfunctioning lights. Sometimes you may be dazzled by on coming vehicles at night that appear to be on main beam. Often they are not, it's just the alignment that's incorrect. Make sure yours are adjusted correctly, dazzling headlamps can cause accidents.
Few people realise how important it is to carry spare bulbs, until one fails during a long journey. Fewer still realise that it is compulsory on mainland Europe to carry a complete emergency bulb kit. These are easily bought, stowed in the car and replaced - a small price to pay for peace of mind. Consult the handbook if you are having problems. If the light or lights still do not work after the bulb has been replaced, there may be a fuse fault. Look in the fuse box and find the appropriate fuse; replace it if necessary.
Oil
It's important that your engine is protected by the right amount of oil - too little or too much can cause extensive damage. Check the oil level when the engine is cold, if you check it after the engine has been turning over, the oil may be deposited higher up on the dip stick and give a false reading. Changing your oil regularly removes the harmful dirt and contaminants that cause engine wear, so sticking rigidly to service intervals will prolong the life of major engine components. To ensure the oil remains in good condition, you should also change the oil filter. Some argue it is not quite so important on older higher mileage "bangers", but an annual oil and filter change using branded oil can help. Turbocharged and high-performance cars will benefit from an intermediate oil change at around 4,000 miles using high-grade synthetic oil.
Radiator
Overheating can have disastrous and highly expensive consequences. It is therefore important to check the coolant level when the engine is cold. The coolant is not merely water any more, today's sophisticated multi-valve engines need a correct mix of water and antifreeze with inhibitor to keep the engine cool, and this also protects the internals from corrosion. It's also important to have your hoses checked to ensure there are no leaks.
Steering
Check for "play" on your steering wheel - there shouldn't be much movement without the front wheels turning. If you notice you car is pulling too much to one side or the other, check your steering and wheel alignment. To make certain, please test this on a flat road. Most roads have a slight slope, or camber, towards the kerb, which has the effect of very slightly pulling your car towards the kerb as you are driving along.
Timing belt
The timing belt connects upper and lower engine parts, and is usually hidden from view under a plastic cover. If this belt breaks your car either runs very poorly, or the engine may "seize", causing extensive damage. Check you handbook to find out what the recommended interval is for changing the timing belt, and stick to it!
Tyres
Regularly check your tyre pressures and look for signs of damage to the sidewalls. Worn tyres can be highly dangerous and significantly affect stopping distances. The rules on tyre wear are much tougher now, and it is a good idea to replace tyres when tread depth is around 2mm, just to be on the safe side. Another thing to look out for is even wearing of the tyres. If a tyre is wearing more on one side, you'll need to have your suspension checked. Always try to avoid hitting the kerb while driving. It can be more dangerous than you think, significantly weakening a tyre without showing much damage on the outside. Don't forget to check the spare wheel, not only may you need it at some point, but also it's an offence to carry a spare wheel that's not roadworthy.
Warning signs
Watch for warning lights, note performance changes and listen to your car - any changes or unusual noises are worth having checked before a more serious fault develops.
Windscreen
Always make sure there is enough water in the windscreen washer reservoir and your wiper blades are working properly. You should change your wiper blades every six months, even if they have not been used very often, because the rubber corrodes with exposure to the atmosphere.
We find it's helpful to use a screen wash all year round. In the summer it helps to remove insects, and in winter it can stop the water freezing (check label for appropriate concentrations).
Always check for cracks in the windscreen. If you are not sure, get someone to look at it and advise you.
Some Tips to remember before Modify or Tune Your Car
Remember to practice SAFE DRIVING on public roads! With additional power comes the need for additional responsibility. Keep the racing restricted to track days and in other forms of competition (within a controlled environment).Enroll with a professional rally / racing / driving school. This will not only make you a faster driver but also a safer one. To quote a popular Pirelli tagline : Power is nothing without control.Ensure that you are with the right tuner. The quality of install and product is most important. Get your work done only by a tuner who has the relevant knowledge, infrastructure and dedication to carry out a high quality installation. The product quality is equally important and it is generally recommended to stick to reputed brands . A bad modification can actually make your car slower than in stock tune. Poor reliability may also result from a bad installation, causing a great amount of heart-burn to you.Remember that the engine is a very complex system and each component has to work in harmony with everything else. Only then will you benefit from the performance modifications.Tune your car via a step-by-step method. This will allow you to gauge improvements in an incremental manner and fine-tune one modification before moving on to the next.Remember that Money runs the show. Tuning your car can be an expensive proposition, so outline a detailed budget before moving on from stage to stage. Not only will the modifications cost you big $$$, but lowered fuel efficiency (almost certain) will cause another dent on your wallet. Some highly-modified cars or engines running an increased compression ratio may also require high-octane fuel to run efficiently.
Stage one ModificationUpgrade Tyre and Alloy WheelsAir FilterFree Flow ExhaustSpark PlugsPlug WiresTemperature Signal ModifiersSynthetic OilStrut BracesShort-ShiftersStage Two ModificationsPerformance Suspension KitsHead Porting & PolishingRemoving the revv-limiterNitrous oxide systems: NOS, as they are popularly called, are cheap power shots and a favorite with drag racers. Due to the inherent nature of the gas, it is a very risky installation. Don’t go overboard with the dose else your engine will end up blown. Also make sure that you back the timing off by a few degreesPerformance camshaftsMap sensor signal modifiersValve anglingOver-boring / Stroker kitsPiggy-back ECU'sEngine remapsStage Three ModificationsPerformance braking systemsTurbo-chargersSuper-chargersEngine swapsUpgrade clutchLighter flywheelGearingECU replacement
(EFI) Electronic Fuel Injection - Think About it
If there's one thing that's critical in a high performance engine, then it's fuel control. Think about it: the whole objective of adding a turbocharger, of installing NOS, even of installing a free flow exhaust system, is to improve fuel delivery into the combustion chamber. It is also events in the combustion chamber that can and will destroy a high performance race engine if it's not controlled properly. Here we're talking about controlling the combustion process. Now I've heard many arguments as to why sidedraft carburetors provide better performance than fuel injection and engine management, and vice versa but I always say: it's not about performance, it's about reliability and there's no better system for fuel control than electronic fuel injection. Any endurance race car from INDY Car Racing, to Formula 1, to the World Rally Championship, to the Le Mans Series uses electronic fuel injection (EFI) systems, not just for reliability but because ensuring that the correct amount of fuel is delivered under every condition, will provide the best performance.
EFI is central to engine management. It relies on an engine control unit (ECU) which processes a number of inputs from various sensors on the engine to deliver the correct amount of fuel at a particular RPM and air-flow rate/air density combination. The fuel is delivered through an injector, which is an electronically actuated solenoid valve. The amount of fuel that is delivered is dependent on the fuel pressure, which is usually a constant 30 psi above intake manifold pressure, and the pulse duration of the injector, i.e., the length of time the injector is held open.
Most EFI systems have a standard set of sensors. These include:
The Barometric Pressure (BARO) Sensor, which provides the ECU with the atmospheric air pressure reading.
The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor, which provides the ECU with the engine's current operating temperature. This is important because fuel vaporization varies for different engine temperatures. A cold engine requires more fuel while a hot engine requires less.
The Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor, which the ECU needs to take into account when determining pulse duration.
The Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor, which is a tube positioned after the air filter in the air intake duct. The MAF sensor has a fine platinum wire that spans across the tube. The wire is heated by electrical current to maintain a constant temperature above ambient. The air flow past the wire cools the wire and more current is required to maintain the constant temperature. Thus, the amount of current required to maintain the constant temperature indicates the air flow rate. The air flow rate is divided by RPM to determine the pulse duration.
The Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor, which uses manifold vacuum to measure engine load. An EFI system that uses a MAP sensor does not require a MAF sensor as it can use the input from the MAP sensor to determine the required pulse duration.
The Oxygen Sensor (O2S), which is used to measure the amount of oxygen that is not consumed during combustion. This is important for the correct operation of the catalyst converter and is used for emissions control rather than performance or economy. The O2S is located in the exhaust system and is an after-the-fact measure of the air/fuel ratio. Too much unburnt fuel in the exhaust indicates a lean mixture while too little oxygen indicates a rich mixture.
The Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor, which is important for timing purposes as it tells the ECU which spark plug to fire and which injector to open at any given point in the Otto cycle.
The Throttle Position (TP) Sensor, which is another important sensor as the throttle position and the rate of change in the throttle position indicates the what the diver wants the car to do.
The modifications you can perform on an OEM EFI are somewhat limited because the OEM ECU is not reprogrammable. However, there are a number of things you can do to modify the EFI system without having to reprogram the ECU. You can increase the fuel pressure as this is one reading that the ECU does not take into account – it assumes the fuel pressure is a constant 30 psi above intake manifold pressure; you can intercept the pulse signal form the ECU, alter it using input from the manifold pressure and send it to the injector; you can increase the injector nozzle size; or you can increase the number of injectors. However, your best option, performance wise, is to install an aftermarket ECU.
A well maintained car attracts everyone’s attention
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Air Bags: Airbags are a type of automobile safety restraint like seatbelts.
Air Conditioning in Cars: The first car with an actual refrigeration system was the 1940 model year Packard.
Bendix Drive or Starter Drive: In 1910, Vincent Bendix patented the Bendix drive for electric starters, an improvement to the hand cranked starters of the time.
Brakes: In 1901, British inventor Frederick William Lanchester patented disc brakes.
Car Radio: In 1929, American Paul Galvin, the head of Galvin Manufacturing Corporation, invented the first car radio. The first car radios were not available from carmakers. Consumers had to purchase the radios separately. Galvin coined the name "Motorola" for the company's new products combining the idea of motion and radio.
Crash Test Dummies: The first crash test dummy was the Sierra Sam created in 1949.
Cruise Control: Ralph Teetor, a prolific (and blind) inventor, invented cruise control.
Differential: Differentials are a variety of gearbox.
Driveshaft: In 1898, Louis Renault invented the first driveshaft.
Electric Windows: Daimler introduced electric windows in cars in 1948.
Fender: In 1901, Frederick Simms invented the first car fender. Similar to the railway engine buffers of the period.
Fuel Injection: The first electronic fuel injection system for cars was invented in 1966 in Britain.
Gasoline: The numerous processes and agents needed to improve the quality of gasoline making it a better commodity.
Heater: Canadian Thomas Ahearn invented the first electric car heater in 1890.
Ignition: Charles Kettering was the inventor of the first electrical starter motor ignition system.
Internal-Combustion Engine: An internal combustion engine is any engine that uses the explosive combustion of fuel to push a piston within a cylinder
License Plates: On April 25, 1901 the state of New York became the first state to require car license plates by law. The very first license plates were called number plates - first issued in 1893 in France by the police.
Spark Plug: Oliver Lodge invented the electric spark ignition (the Lodge Igniter) for the internal combustion engine.
Muffler: Eugene Houdry invented the catalytic muffler
Odometer: An odometer records the distance that a vehicle travels.
Seat Belts/Safety Belts: The first U.S. patent for automobile seat beats was issued to Edward J. Claghorn of New York, New York on February 10, 1885.
Supercharger: Ferdinand Porsche invented the first supercharged Mercedes-Benz SS & SSK sports cars in Stuttgart, Germany in 1923.
Third Brake Light: In 1974, psychologist John Voevodsky invented the third brake light, a brake light that is mounted in the base of rear windshields. When drivers press their brakes, a triangle of light will warn following drivers to slow down.
Tires: Charles Goodyear invented vulcanized rubber in 1844 that was later used for the first tires
Transmissions:In 1832, W. H. James invented a rudimentary three-speed transmission. Panhard and Levassor are credited with the invention of the modern transmission - installed in their 1895 Panhard. On April 28, 1908, Leonard Dyer obtained one of the earliest patents for an automobile transmission.
Turn Signals: Buick introduced the first electric turn signals in 1938.
Power Steering: Francis W. Davis invented power steering. In the 1920s, Davis was the chief engineer of the truck division of the Pierce Arrow Motor Car Company, and he saw first hand how hard it was to steer heavy vehicles. Davis quit his job and rented a small engineering shop in Waltham, MA. He developed a hydraulic power steering system that led to power steering. Power steering became commercially available by 1951.
Windshield Wipers: Prior to the manufacture of Henry Ford's Model A, Mary Anderson was granted her first patent for a window cleaning device in November of 1903.For more details visit: http://www.autosparepartsusa.com/
